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Tuesday, September 27, 2005

A week in the dunes


It was a quiet week here in Haarlem. Things are winding down after summer even though the weather remains sunny and warm. It seems that we have been spending a lot of time in the dunes and on the seashore. We like to walk with the dogs in the evenings after dinner and then sit in one of the beach cafés at sunset for a cup of coffee or glass of wine with friends. The beaches aren’t so crowded now and all the bars/cafés set up right on the sand will soon be packing up and closing down for winter.

This photo is Sage overlooking the southern part of Zandvoort. The wildflowers are still thick in the dunes even into September. Posted by Picasa

Beth and Natasja are undoubtedly planning for the garden that we are going to share in the local Volkstuin (public garden area) while Eva hams it up for the camera. Eva has just landed her first job as a newspaper carrier and is very excited about all the millions that she is going to make. Congratulations!Posted by Picasa

Sage and Clover in the forested dunes above Schoorl. This park is HUGE ... about 2000 hectares...and we quickly got lost among all of the excellent trail signs ;-)

Clover is a fellow expat from Vermont.

Captain Leon


We got out of the sand and into the water when Captain Leon took us out on his new boat for a cruise around Haarlem and the Spaarne River. I have to admit that we enjoyed the boat ride a little bit more than the Salsa dancing lessons that that Leon and Miranda took us to last weekend. It became painfully obvious that Beth and I are just a couple of white kids from the Appalachian mountains who have no concept of rhythm. “Een,twee, dree…vijf,zes,zeven.” Huh?

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

This weeks post is a digression of sorts, but it’s my blog damnit and I’ll digress if I want to. Please come back next week for more “ordinary” dandbhaarlem blogging fare.



“Who do we want to be today?”
A very short and convoluted story. For Beth.


It all started with what most thought was the foolhardy notion of cutting themselves loose from the daily grind and seemingly mundane existence that was slowly creeping its way into their lives. Sure, they had only been married for a year by then, and had endured living in the dark, cramped basement of a group house in Bethesda where they would come home in the evening to find their whacky roommates in their bed eating their food and drinking their wine. Things had somewhat improved when they moved into their own tiny apartment overlooking a lush green park on the edge of the city, but maybe it was just that improvement into more of an “adult” circumstance that had exposed the standard, unimaginative road laid out in front of them, beckoning them toward cookie cutter conformity. Marriage, work, kids, promotion, house-in-the burbs, 2 week vacation, grandkids, death. The signs were all neatly arraigned for them. All they had to do was follow them toward a perfect modern day Norman Rockwell life.

But they shared a nagging voice that held them back, a brief hesitation. Not because it scared them…this coming of age and becoming adults. Responsibility after the raucous college years. No, that wasn’t it at all. They were definitely ready to take a step deeper into life. But this step wasn’t the right one. It felt so, well….ordinary. Wasn’t there another option?

That hesitation, that simple question was the real beginning for them. They saved a little cash, sold off the few things that they had managed to acquire and packed up their little 2-door hatchback with a tent, a cooler, and a small propane stove and headed west to seek an answer. To discover what else America might have to offer. It felt like a Simon and Garfunkel song as they drove out of Pittsburgh and crossed the Ohio River on a 5000 mile journey that had no destination. Little did they know how the next three months would define the guiding spirit of the rest of their lives together.

Pitching their tent in the pouring rain, discovering the back roads of the Rocky Mountains, making a meal from the free mini-hotdogs and raw vegetables at a hotel happy hour. Laughing. It was all exhilarating. But the best part; the absolute best, was waking up each morning with a Pop Tart, a cup of coffee and a blank agenda for life – who do we want to be today?

All of those memories flooded back to him as he poured a glass of wine and watched her standing by the railing of the Pan Pacific Hotel. A hot breeze was swirling upward from the street 27 floors below and gently rustled in her dress and hair. The setting sun licked fiery orange across the glass canyon walls of the city as the last tropical rays burned through the thunderheads building over the South China Sea. Wet, sticky heat lingered even as the sun descended beyond the horizon - only the approaching storm offered a fleeting hope of relief. Even so, she held her foot through the railing, stretching her toes over the edge to try and capture as much of the breeze as she could, guiding it up her bare legs and under the folds of her dress. From where he stood, it looked as if she were playfully dipping her toes between the boats in Keppel Harbor, testing for coolness before shedding her clothes and jumping in to the dark, swirling waters.

He still loved watching her, and smiled to himself as he realized that after 16 years of marriage he was also still fantasizing about her swimming naked in a pond, as a hormonally overcharged teenager might do. Even after the hundreds of times sharing a bottle of wine, nude in the hot tub on the back deck of their house in Boise, gazing up on the shadowed foothills of sage, juniper and rabbit brush with a billion stars glittering over them in the crisp, clear, high mountain air. She still excited him.

They spent 10 years in Boise. Bought their first house. Joined their first activist group. Buried their first pet. It was life at its best, with all the ups and downs that keep life worth living. It certainly didn’t feel ordinary and they both grabbed a hold of every opportunity that presented itself, drinking in the essence of it. Those years in Boise had been wonderful, and would always hold a special place in their memory as the first step in this perpetual journey together. But it came as no surprise to either of them when almost like an alarm clock ringing in their heads, the lure of life, those eternal questions, again drew them away into uncharted territory. Who do we want to be today?

Everyone has a story about the devastating collapse of the global economy and America’s turbulent entry into war in those early years of the 21st century. In a lot of ways, their individual experiences were no different. But the compounding of events in their lives left a nexus of havoc through everything that they had worked so hard to achieve. And worst of all, it left them confused about who they were. The bottom was uncertain and crept toward them excruciatingly slowly.

But drawing upon the spirit kindled from that first journey so many years ago, they found their way forward. Others couldn’t understand how they were actually having fun navigating those turbulent years when the rest of the world seemed in utter chaos. They took every bit and piece that was offered and they played the ultimate flexibility card by moving 10 more times in the next 24 months. A brutal experience, but they regained momentum with each step. They were together and knew that the only difference between adversity and adventure was attitude. They chose adventure. Who did they want to be today?

It was clear that what they needed was balance. Perspective. The little piece of property that they bought 5 years earlier up in the mountains of Western Maryland somehow held the answer. Its rolling forested hills sat on the banks of the wild Youghiogheny river and offered the perfect place to regroup and rejuvenate their lives. They turned away from the world and inward toward each other, leaping into the project. They built a mile long driveway into the deepest heart of the property, constructing their house at the very end of it. No city lights. No neighbors. Just the two of them in the gentle quiet of owls.

The primal effort of that first winter, with its vicious 20 feet of snow brought the basics of vigor back into their lives. Daily struggles in chest deep powder cutting firewood to heat the house were tempered by long nights together in the hot tub, drinking wine and dreaming in each other by candlelight. It didn’t seem possible, but they grew yet closer. They spent two years in those mountains, learning more about the land, themselves, and each other and who they might want to be tomorrow. Two unforgettable years.

And now here they were one year later at age 40, two kids from the forgotten coal country of Pennsylvania, living in Holland and celebrating their 16th wedding anniversary at a hastily arranged rendezvous half way around the world in Singapore. Smiling with that thought, he walked over and folded his arms around her. She welcomed him with a purr and nuzzled her body firmly into him, adding more warmth to the already tropical heat. Her hair smelled of lavender and felt like silk against his face. He placed his lips gently on the nape of her neck and slowly kissed his way to her ear, nibbling softly on her lobe.

“I love you” he breathed. “Happy anniversary.”

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Singapore


The heat! My god, the heat!

Did you know that you had sweat glands on your earlobes? How about your eyelids? Did you also know that the simple act of climbing three stairs in the equatorial sun is enough exertion to cause sweat to seep from these obscure little glands? Not to mention the gushers of liquid coming from all the normal and well known areas. “I think I feel a sweat coming on” became our mantra as we explored the beautiful island country of Singapore.

This was my first trip to Asia and really punctuated for me the rise of this continent in the global economy. As an American, Asia was (and somewhat still is) a compilation of abstract concepts. It’s a big area. There are a lot of different countries with a lot of different cultures. There are a shitload of people, and they work very hard for a lot less money than we do. Oh yea, and we’ve heard that they are starting to gain wealth and momentum in the world. We believe that it’s real because we’ve been told by the business people that this is a huge market opportunity. We know that it’s real because we’ve seen images on TV, right? But until I saw a place like Singapore, with it’s wealth, innovation and newness of infrastructure; until I felt the crush of the masses on the subway; until I saw the melting pot that used to be the exclusive domain of America, it was hard for me to truely understand the somewhat shocking reality of this continent and it's vast potential. For those of you with kids, I'd recommend that you strap them in…I’m guessing that they are going to have a hell of a ride as this continent asserts itself more and more into the global economy.

The city itself is brand spanking new as far as that goes. There were plenty (PLENTY) of cool eating areas with great outdoor atmospheres and some of the best food that we've ever tasted. The shopping was also worldclass if you like that sort of thing and we quickly understood the need for the enclosed downtown malls after experiencing the intense heat and drenching rains. But somehow it all felt a bit sterile to us...kind of like Reston on steriods (sorry Sue). For us, it would easily rank in the top 5 cities if it were located in the States, because at least the downtown was intact and lively. But we've become somewhat spoiled over the past year by the dynamic, lively, and individually unique older cities of Europe.

I also wanted to comment on one last glaring contrast from here in Europe. From what I experienced, the rest of the world could learn a lot from the service in Singapore - America included. It was top notch across the board - from the cabbies to the jerky bars (don't ask). But even in the technological wonder that is modern Singapore, with it's outstanding service, I'd quickly introduce some good old fashioned German efficiency...maybe they just need a few hundred more years of practice.

While living on the equator holds no appeal for us cold blooded and gloomy Northern Europeans (can we call ourselves that yet?), it was a great trip and we loved Singapore, it's friendly people and the surrounding jungle island for a visit. We're going to continue our forays into Asia with plans for Korea, Japan, and Northern China starting to appear on the horizon.

I hope you enjoy the pics!

Opera house - known locally as the "Eye of the Fly". The acoustics are supposed to be phenomenal. Posted by Picasa

Warehouse district - one of the few "historic" places in the city, these wharehouses have been converted to riverfront eateries....lekker! Posted by Picasa

Nice Shirt


Where can I get a shirt like that? Posted by Picasa

This Merlion is the symbol of Singapore and goes back into ancient legends. If you can't tell, this sculpture is huge....maybe 40-50 feet high spitting water into the harbor. Posted by Picasa

Relaxing by the pool in the still sweltering midnight heat. Posted by Picasa

Our prized portrait taken by the ancient guy driving our tour boat. Posted by Picasa

From our boat tour on the Singapore river. Colorful riverfront restaurants. Posted by Picasa

Cold Coconut Milk on a hot night in Chinatown. One quick "Whack" with the machete and it's ready to drink. Posted by Picasa

Cable Car from the city to Sentosa Island Posted by Picasa

Beach on Sentosa Island Posted by Picasa

There were many lagoons scattered among the beaches - all with warning signs for a nasty little "rock fish" with poisoned fins...yikes! Posted by Picasa

Port of Singapore - here they come! Posted by Picasa

Crossing the swinging bridge to the Southern most point of continental Asia - not quite the same death trap as the one in Belize! Posted by Picasa

Mosque Posted by Picasa

I think this was the Animist Temple - you know me...they're all the same in my book. But the gaudy colors on this building were bizarre. Posted by Picasa

Chinatown - trinkets, trash, and lots of red. A very cool district, but geez...what are they thinking with these cheap little balloons - the kids went crazy for them. Posted by Picasa

It's his coffee! This old guy got stuck in the monsoon with us. What a hoot! Posted by Picasa

Waiting out the monsoon at the backpackers pub in Little India. Posted by Picasa

What city were we in again? I thought that I'd either post this or the warnings for Dengue Fever, but I'm not sure that mom would appreciate that one. Posted by Picasa

Thursday, September 01, 2005

Happy Birthday Johnny – Euro Style



Our good friend Johnathan Kenny invited a few folks out for a night on the town to celebrate his birthday. I don’t usually take my camera to these kind of events, so when Barry whipped out his camera and started taking pictures I thought that I’d grab a copy and post them to our blog for you to enjoy. Barry even hired a street magician to come in and provide a bit of entertainment. We were a little worried when he said that he met the guy at a late night (3:00 AM) dance club in Amsterdam, but the magician turned out to be really good and kept us all laughing with his humor and performance.

The happy crew pictured below is comprised of Dutch, British, Irish, American, and Romanians….quite the lineup. Look how cool Beth is in this shot. I think she felt like a movie star with the wind machine that we set up to make her hair "poofie". ;-)

Thanks to Barry for the pictures! Posted by Picasa

Ooopa!


The sound of breaking glass and the familiar call to dance from a party of older Greek men tossing their plates to the floor brought everyone to their feet for a few times around the restaurant.

You couldn’t have scripted this better for a movie. It was one of those great story events that most people don’t believe actually occurs outside the confines of the trailer park.

Greek Dancing

One more round!