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Sunday, June 19, 2005

Paris


The "Left Bank". This was the area of the city that Hemmingway and other noted writers haunted. Les Deux Maggots is just around the corner in this photo.

I can’t believe that we’ve lived in Europe for almost a year and have only recently taken the high speed train down to Paris. After 4 nights in the heart of the French capital, I can understand the allure and energy that has drawn so many artists, writers, intellectuals, and free thinkers here to sit with like-minded compatriots in a sidewalk cafĂ© on a quiet square tucked into an hopelessly picturesque quarter of the city.

While I didn’t enjoy the standard tourist sites (I rarely do), I found exploring the less tour-bus trammeled areas of Paris fascinating and beautiful. The following pictures are from our visit. Hope you enjoy! Posted by Hello

Sacre Coeur


Another favorite area of the city. Once you got away from the throngs of tourists, "real" scenes like this quickly emerged. Posted by Hello

Picnic on the banks of the Seine


With Notre Dame framed by the setting sun, Parisians flock to the banks of the Seine with a bottle of wine, a baquette of bread and a chunk of cheese to enjoy the cool evening. Posted by Hello

Office view


Beth's office in Paris overlooks this ornate church. It's a tough gig! Posted by Hello

Molen


Being from Holland, I couldn't resist this little French windmill tucked onto the hillside of Montmartre. The hill used to host several hundred mills...now only 3 survive. Posted by Hello

Modern Fountain


Very cool modern architecture, art, and fountains were scattered about the city. This fountain was littered with creaking, squeeking, rotating, and squirting modern art pieces. The contrast with the medieval church in the background was absolute. Posted by Hello

Louvre


Allright, so this photograph is very cliche . But you have to admit that it's pretty damned impressive. Look at the scale of these structures against the people walking around. After seeing the Louvre, I can understand why there was a bloody revolution against the aristicrats. Overt opulence is an understated description of this former royal palace. Posted by Hello

La Defense


I found modern France as intriguing as historical France. This office complex on the outskirts of the city was pretty incredible. You can just see the Arc de Triumph in the distance.

Look at the pedestrian activity - not just another souless suburb.Posted by Hello

La Defense


Wow! Posted by Hello

AAAAYAYAYAY!!!!


Feast your eyes on our hotel room. With all the cool things out in the city, where does this gnarly taste in decoration come from? The wallpaper was horrendous. Scenes of happy little French peasants dancing around a deflated hot air ballon. Bizaare to say the least. The curtains matched the bedspread and the carpet was a blue-green flower pattern. I won't scare you with a description of the chair beside the bed. I couldn't photograph it all at once for fear of causing sensory overload for some of our coffee shop friends in Amsterdam. Yikes! Posted by Hello

Monday, June 13, 2005

Rural Legends?

You’ve all heard of cow tipping, right? This is the semi-mythical rural American ritual where young, usually drunken country boys go out to cow pastures late at night when “de cows is sleeping standing up”. Three or four of the burliest young drunkards sneak up on the “sleeping” cow and charge it with shoulders lowered like the front line of a football squad. The idea is that since the cow is fast asleep and its balance mechanisms are shut down that the charging drunks will somehow be able to knock the cow over…or “tip” it.

Is the phenomenon of cow tipping fact or fiction? Well, only those of us who were drunk and stupid enough in our youth to attempt a cow-tipping will ever know….because we were all sworn to secrecy concerning the events of May 23, 1982 (12:47 AM).

However, today I did discover that another rural legend is not a legend at all. I want to reveal the startling truth behind a deadly threat to sheep populations around the world.

The following events occurred as I was biking across the Oudespaarndammer polder on my way up to Spaarnwoude to do a little mountain biking. (The Spaarn is a large local river, so a lot of things are named after it). This particular polder sits right on the outskirts of Haarlem and is still used for grazing sheep and cows. It’s a great jumping off point to quickly get out of the city on a hot day. I was on a narrow single-track gravel trail, my MP3 player blasting some old Boston tune directly into my brain stem, and I was just starting to get into a good groove for putting a lot of kilometers behind me in a hurry, when about half way across the polder I noticed a dog sitting in the trail ahead of me. Not unusual. But the woman who jumped out of the thickets, frantically waving me over to the side was definitely out of the ordinary.

I could see her mouth moving very quickly as I pulled off the trail. I took out my ear speakers and asked her in respectable Dutch to please repeat her question….which she did, but way to fast and frenzied for me to understand. All I could hear from her was “Sheep”, “Back”, “Dead”, and “Help” – not necessarily in that order for those of you who know the somewhat bizarre word ordering of the Dutch language.

“Het spijt me. Mijn Nederlands is niet zo good. Kunt u iets langzaam spreken astublieft?” I asked her in pretty respectable Dutch. At this point she picked up on the non-native accent and like 99% of the rest of the people in Holland, she went right into flawless English.

“There is a sheep in the field over here.” She said pointing across the polder. “He is on his back and he is going to die unless we get him up.”

Confused, blank stare from me.

“Can you help me to stand the sheep up?” she asked slowly, as if I was daft.

I looked around, just to assess the situation and make sure that there weren’t any “surprises” waiting for me in the weeds. Most of all I was worried that there would be a whole elaborate setup from one of those “hidden camera” shows filming me as the butt of some bizarre Dutch joke. “Look at this American dork. He stopped to help a woman flip over a sheep. HA HA!”.

After feeling confident that there was no one else around, I said “Sure” with more than a little bit of a smile on my face and skepticism in my voice. I leaned my bike against the fence and followed the woman across the polder toward a group of what looked to me like comfortably resting sheep.

“How do you know that a sheep on it’s back is unable to get up?” I asked in a sarcastic tone.

“I read about it in a book.” She said. “If they are not yet sheered and have a lot of wool on them, they can roll onto their backs but can not flip back over.”

It sounded pretty ridiculous and in the same mythical genre as “cow tipping”. I turned around again to check to see if someone was stealing my bike. Still there. No one else around.

As we got closer to the sheep, they started to get up from their naps, obviously annoyed at the intrusion, and began trotting away from us. All except one.

The sheep still on the ground let out a horrific, bleating scream. His legs started flailing wildly in the air, and if it weren’t so pathetic to see, it would have actually been quite comical. It twisted its head from one side to the other and tried with every muscle to stand up. You could almost hear it shouting “Help! I fallen down and I can’t get up!”

We walked toward the gyrating sheep, and it flailed even more as it saw us closing in. But as we stood over the him, he seemed to calm down. Anticipating our next move.

I looked over at the woman, with a little more respect now, and asked her how we do this? She looked back at me and laughed. “I don’t know.”

So, we both just stooped down, grabbed onto the thick wool and gave him a quick yank off his back. He was remarkably light….all wool…and when his feet hit the ground he bolted off with the rest of his compatriots.

I stood there somewhat stunned at what I had just witnessed. We walked quietly back to the path and said goodbye.

For some reason, all I could think about for the rest of my bike ride was going to the Bor Snackbar down the street to get some take-out for dinner. Their shoarma is excellent.

Monday, June 06, 2005

Den Helder


Most people that we talked to said to "skip" Den Helder. The city lies at the very tip of North Holland and is dominated by a Royal Navy base. The city itself wasn't anything to write home about, but the setting was beautiful. We walked along a huge man-made seawall for 2 or 3 miles the whole way around the arc of the coastline against the North Sea. We stopped at "the point" to watch seals playing in the surf on the western coast, ferry boats taking vacationers to the island of Texel on the Northern coast, and a large herd of horses galloping full stride across the polder below us to the East. The wind almost knocked us off the bluff, but it was a spectacular view.

We took the long way home and stopped for dinner on the old harbor of Hoorn...still my favorite city in The Netherlands.

Lekker!

P.S. - I don't know why the lighthouse looks like it is leaning here. It wasn't. My camera has been giving me grief recently so maybe it is distorting the pictures.

Posted by Hello