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Monday, December 19, 2011

Kerstdagen

We've been doing the rounds for Christmas markets these past few weeks, starting off in Haarlem where there was an old-fashioned street fair.   The "sleep fairies" sprinkled me with magic dust, but that still couldn't compete with the 1800's hookers in the windows...gotta love those knee length knickers.


A new "heritage" law states that the Christmas tree can't go up until after 5-December, which is the oh-so-Dutch celebration of Sinterklaas.


Then it was into Amsterdam to see the lights, do some shopping, and grab a nice dinner.  The Bijenkorf (The beehive) always does it up properly.


But we still prefer the quiet, back streets of the city as apposed to the hustle and bustle of Dam square.


We also took a road trip over to Cologne, Germany for their Christmas markets.  There was some amazing history in the city, including one of the best Roman towers and mosaic floors that we've ever seen (not the one in this photo).  50 AD and survived the bombings of WWII...amazing!



Of course Cologne is all about "the" church.  Too massive to capture in a single photo, it was truly impressive.  But the rest of the core city left us a little disappointed.  We loved the outer rings, with their eclectic neighborhoods and parks, but the rebuilt center was too crowded and didn't have the charm that we've come to expect on our Chrismas market jaunt.



Love locks - apparently there is a tradition to place a lock on this fence when you get engaged to declare your undying love.   There were some pretty interesting stories in those locks - tens of thousands of them.  I wonder if they go back and remove them when they get divorced?



I know, I know.  I say it every year...but the "brats" in Germany can't be beat.  If there is no other reason to drive 3.5 hours, it's for the brats.


A new twist on street performers.  He was hilarious!  Although it was a bit creepy when he wagged his tail as a pretty girl walked by.


We slept late on Sunday and didn't get up much before checkout time - it must have had something to do with that last pub.  So on the way home, we got to talking and decided to stop in the small town of Kevelaer for a final German Christmas market.  There were two reasons for this, and I've already mentioned the brats, right?  So let's be open and honest about this.   Since leaving Cologne, our drive was a  beautiful, blue-sky road trip that took us back to the days of crossing central Oregon with nothing but sunshine and open horizon.  That is until we got within 15 kilometers of the Dutch border.  The dark, soggy clouds looked ominous, and oh-so-familiar.  I hate to admit it, but I might have (finally) reached my limit.  If 2012 plays out like 2011 (weather wise), I think it's time for some soul searching.

But today it's Christmas week.  So Merry Christmas!  Happy Holidays!  Bodacious Bar mitzvah!  or whatever other greeting floats your boat...you know what I mean.  

Cheers from Holland! 

Wednesday, December 07, 2011

Ajax


No, not the 1970's dish detergent.  I'm talking about the Amsterdam football team...as in soccer.  In Dutch it's pronounced "I-ax".

I thought that I was doing pretty well adapting to the Dutch lifestyle when I carried my first case of beer home from the grocery store on the back of my bicycle.   And when I bought my first sausage from the Hema I started really feeling like a local.  But it wasn't until I was finally able to speak the language that I people started to second guess my nationality.  I could keep them strung along for a little while, even with my thick accent....until the subject of football came up, which it inevitably does.  I don't know squat about soccer.

But everyone else in Holland knows EVERYTHING about soccer.  And they fall into one of two camps - Ajax or Feyenoord.  Amsterdam or Rotterdam.  And when I say camps, I really mean adversaries...enemies.  It can come to blows.  In fact, it has gotten to be such a big rivalry that the fans of Rotterdam are not allowed to attend a match in Amsterdam and vice versa.    


I'm not much of an organized sports fan, but I thought that if I really wanted to fit in over here that I needed to experience a soccer match and see what all the hoopla was about.  So I went with my friend Frank into Amsterdam on Saturday night for a match.  I still don't get the rules, but the atmosphere was really a great experience - from the fanatics in "Block 14" with their endless chanting and flag waving, to the whacky guy who ran through the crowds, back and forth through the aisles for the last 15 minutes of the match.  Ajax dominated the play (75% of ball handling) and easily beat their opponents 4-1.  It was fun...but once was enough.  Now I think that I can hold my own in a conversation.   Just don't tell my boss that I went to see Ajax...he's a Feyenoord supporter.