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Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Christmas Impressions - 2007



We had a beautiful white week here in North Holland. It didn't snow nor was there freezing rain. The white that you see on the trees are frosty pillars of frozen fog. It was really bizarre and even the locals said that they had never seen anything like it before. I'm sorry now that I didn't get any close ups of the trees. Every branch was stacked with 2-3 cm of ultra lite frosting. The coating lasted for two days before being burned off by brilliant sun just before Christmas.



But the real bonus of more than a week of sub-freezing temperatures was the ice that formed on the local canals and ponds. It wasn't enough to freeze the big canals used for the once every 20 year famous 11 city ice skating race, but it was cold enough to strap on the skates and get the kiddies and dogs onto the ice. It was hillarious to see how excited they all were.

The local mill park, during the day....



...and at night.

Relaxing in a cafe after some last minute shopping.

And what is Christmas without the annual hikes/exploring to new places. First it was the beach...
...then it was the city. The (in)famous Erasmus bridge in Rotterdam.




Going up? Rotterdam has always been known as the newer, high-rise city of The Netherlands. But recently the Dutch have figured a new way for the swampland that underlies most of their country to support more weight. It's being put to the test in Rotterdam as the city embarks on a massive building boom skyward.


Cubic houses were built in the 1970's to help bring life and interesting architecture to the otherwise bland new city. Furiture must be specially made to fit in these houses. The building in the background is from the same architect and is known as "The pencil".



The famous statue commemerating the feeling of May 14, 1940, which made all the rebuilding necessary. A reminder of what they had to work with after that night.


We spent Christmas eve at Zannenpark here in North Haarlem where they brought out the decorations, cocoa, and carolers for an evening sing-along. Funny to hear Silent Night and Oh Christmas Tree translated to Dutch. It was a good ol' fashioned gathering, just like in the movies. But the big sing-along was on the Grote Markt in the center of the city...unfortunately it didn't start until midnight and we were too comfortable at home in front of the fire. So I took this capture from the Haarlem web cam. The turn out was about 1500 revelers.





And the most unique present this year? Hot pepper sauce served up in a very shapely naked woman jar. Thanks Katie and Jodi!!! You'd fit right in over here in The Netherlands. When are you coming for a visit?



Sunday, December 09, 2007

Dutch Music

Today’s entry is a cultural extravaganza into the world of Dutch music. Now that I have been spending more time in the car (yes, I am back at work), and speaking more Dutch, I’ve been listening to a radio station called “100% NL”. Most other stations play music from around the world, and of course the USA is a juggernaut in music so we hear all the latest from the states. But 100% NL only plays music from Dutch artists. I got to thinking that folks back in the states might never have heard Dutch music (or at least realized that they were hearing it), so I thought that I’d put together a little compilation from YouTube of some fairly representative music out of Holland.

We’ll go in a little bit of a chronological order, so I’ll start with one that you all will know, but maybe didn’t realize was Dutch. Yes, it’s old, but this band was to the Netherlands what ABBA was to Sweden: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGdSmNnz2ZA

Of course the Dutch also had the classic rockers who didn’t survive, yet are a time honored memory for those of us over 35. Herman Brood was one of these classic rockers and also a fairly renowned painter…until he swan-dove off a balcony of a hotel in Amsterdam. I’m curious if any of you older readers have ever heard of him. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mEjmWnihrc&feature=related

And then there were the 80’s. This band was very popular in the “new wave” genre and their music is still played by cover bands over here today. Doe Maar - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhSbaiUF3OQ&feature=related

The Dijk is a more traditional band out of the late 70’s/80s, kind of a mix between Jimmy Buffet and The Eagles. We’ve seen them in concert over here and people go crazy.
De Dijk – groot hart - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVa8JIZ-lik&feature=related

Marco Borsato is the Niel Diamond/Billy Joel of The Netherlands. This song is classic Borsato and if played, really, really loud is actually very good. It’s a love song, with the title “Red”. By the way, for those of you who asked about the last post in my Venice blog entry - this Borsato video is filmed in a concert venue in Amsterdam called “Paradiso”. It’s an old church that was converted to a music hall back in the 60’s. The stained glass windows still frame the stage. This place has hosted the likes of The Doors and The Rolling Stones among others. It’s a fantastic, intimate venue for a concert. Beth just asked me to add that "Rood" is her favorite Dutch song.
Rood - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCti-yENAG0&feature=related


And then there is contemporary pop…lot’s of it. This is a great little number by the band Leaf. Are they playing it in the states? It’s simple, and not very deep, but very catchy and is getting a lot of air-time over here. Notice the quality difference in the video production….just can’t compete with Hollywood…but the tune is great. One of my favorites currently playing on the radio’s here. Leaf - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDFTlw3BfTM


Dance/DJ music is also wildly popular over here and The Netherlands hosts some of the largest/wildest dance festivals in Europe. Our friend Barry is really into that scene and has produced this little clip on YouTube. BTW – the festival in this film is held in one of Sage’s favorite parks where we trained with her for the Amsterdam Marathon. Barry – maybe you can post a link to a well-known Dutch artist in this genre? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sftu73mOsqc

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Venice

This extremely unlikely city has been portrayed so often in photos, art, and film that it is impossible to hear the word “Venice” without conjuring a finely-honed image in your head. One might think that it is not even necessary to visit because it is already so familiar. But as our water-taxi made its way through the Grand Canal en route to the Rialto Bridge, passing palaces, gondola’s and the trademark candy striped boat moorings, that sense of familiarity was surprisingly coupled with exotic excitement.




For someone who lives in the lowest of the "Low Countries", a place that is constantly at odds with water, I could not suppress my amazement that Venice even exists at all. While Amsterdam is built around water, Venice is built IN water. This photo illustrates the battle that they are facing. See the bulkhead that they are building in front of this church? If any of the predictions of rising water levels are even 5% true, then this city is in serious trouble.





Preparing for winter's high-tide, these elevated walkways are strategically placed around the city for quick deployment in case of flooding.



Everything is done by boat, from deliveries to garbage removal to construction cranes.


Once the goods are in the city, they are off-loaded to these carts and hand wheeled to their final destination. Not a single car, golf cart or scooter! Fantastic!



...and one of the nicer final destinations for those goods was the Rialto Market.


Once you muscled your way through the crowds surrounding the tacky tourist booths, a classic European market could be found.


And being a city surrounded by water, fish was one of the main fares on offer. Once again the food in Northern Italy exceeded our expectations. It really doesn't get any better.




But if the big market is not your style, don't worry! We saw these smaller one-man markets throughout the islands of the lagoon.


No photo journal of Venice can be complete without the famous Rialto Bridge....

or a waterfront palace.


But sometimes it's the small details that make it special. This little fountain on a tucked away square...

or the different levels of history clearly visible on buildings at the foot of this bridge.


Peeling paint and crumbling brick...all part of the "off the beaten path" ambience.


Brightly colored boats. I didn't notice the dead phantom turtle when I took the picture...maybe it wasn't really there.
Anyone who has played one of those infamous first-person shooter computer games set in Venice or been to the Belaggio in Las Vegas will recognize this water color. Who'd of thunk that they would actually have gotten it right?

The obligatory sunny terrace with beer photo. Hmmmm....which beer is Beth's?

The obnoxious "pigeon man". He kept feeding the little buggers (which is why we had to have a cover on our peanut in the last photo).


And for my Dutch friends....nuff said.


Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Crisp changes

As I sit to type this week's blog entry, hail and rain are whipping against both the front and back windows of the house. Winter-like weather has finally been reaching The Netherlands as a violent North Sea storm crashes into the coast. The rest of Europe (outside of Spain) is also getting hammered - the Austrian Alps received over 1 meter of snow last weekend.

What makes it even harder is that just last week we were still entrenched in crisp fall weather highlighted by brilliant leaf colors. It seems like the changes are coming fast and furious and it might be a good time to step back and reflect on which direction we'd like to go.




An ancient road through the North Sea dunes. We walk this trail almost daily but have just learned that it was established in the 13th century. You can almost imagine a lone horseback rider trotting quietly along, glancing warily into the forest.


A classic landgoed (estate) with long, broad and well organized paths that is now converted into a city park.

I hesitated to post this photo because it carries such a strong pop-culture connotation of religion, but the sun cutting through the colorful trees spilling light onto the approaching intersection was too perfect to pass up. Take what you want from it...as long as it helps you choose your own path.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

Rijbewijs (rye-ba-vise)


Part I. The theory exam


Today’s blog entry is the first of two segments that are going to take you down memory lane into what, for most of you, was the distant past. Think way, way, way back to when you were just learning to drive a car. Of course back then you were excited with all the possibilities that being able to drive would offer – riding into town and cruising the streets with friends, road trips out to the state parks, parking with a girlfriend off Myers School Road. But let’s not forget the hassles associated with those exciting times - learner’s permit, eye test, written exam, then culminating with the actual driving exam in the little enclosed circuit behind the police station. Let’s be honest. It was all a bit stressful. At least that is how it was for me. 25 bloody years ago!


Well, guess what? I recently had the pleasurable opportunity to relive those youthful days. To re-experience the excitement and anticipation. To once again officially learn to drive.

I started this exciting process in July and I had until November 15, 2007 to complete it. That is when my US driver’s license would expire.


First, let me tell you that driving here in Holland is a complete and total nightmare. If you are not sitting in a 20Km traffic jam on the A2 (inevitably somewhere in the vicinity of Utrecht) then you are stuck in a 50 car backup on a main thoroughfare right here in Haarlem while a Leen Bakker truck is triple parked for 30 minutes to unload new merchandise into the store – which by the way is a perfectly legal thing to do over here. Bicycles, pedestrians, mopeds, motorcycles, horses, trucks, tractors, trams, carts, etc. are all considered road users and there is an obscure and complicated set of rules that dictate right-of-way and proper procedures for each of these users under every imaginable set of circumstances.


Needless to say, there is an entire industry built up around helping people to navigate these rules and successfully obtaining a Dutch driver’s license. It’s a two part process. First you have to pass the Theory Exam then you have to pass the Practical Exam.


For someone who has driven 25 years, three of which have been right here on the mean streets of Holland, it should be a simple proposition, right? I already had it all figured out…


The first thing that I did was to call the largest driving school in the region – Sprang & Tempo, for advice. I see their cars on the streets all the time and thought that they would be the best choice. They listened to my situation (in Dutch) and set up an appointment for an evaluation drive later that week, saying that they needed to assess my skills before they could advise me on what I should do.


“Ok,” I thought. “I’ll dazzle them with my 25 years of experience and they’ll recommend that I go straight to the exams. 1, 2, done in a week.”


Well, it was embarrassing enough when the neighbors saw the “Loser” car pulled up in front of our house to pick me up (the school cars all have a big “L” on the roof and are the frequent butt of jokes by us, er, licensed drivers), but it was even worse when I saw who I had for an instructor. I had been driving longer than this kid had been alive.


It quickly turned ugly. Our one hour session was filled with this little punk chastising me for everything from lingering with my right hand on the gear shift a bit too long to turning the steering wheel while the car was not in motion. When the session was over he explained to me that it was obvious that I knew how to drive, but that I needed to learn how to pass the exam and these were two very different things. He recommended that I take 6 one-hour lessons before scheduling the practical exam. I was flabbergasted and spoke up in protest. He repeated his point, saying that I would never pass the exam in the manner that I had just driven. It was that simple.


But even more importantly, I must first pass the Theory Exam. It wasn’t even worth moving forward until I had obtained that certificate. On that point I agreed. He said that he would send me the Rules and Regulations Manual and Self-Study Guide, including 8 practice exams in the mail. “Please call us back when you have the certificate.”


Three days later all of the material arrived. I was pleasantly surprised to see that he had found an English version of the traffic manual and quickly dove into the 168 page text.


I could go on for hours about that damned manual and all the ridiculous levels of minutiae that are contained in it, but for your sake I won’t. Suffice it to say that I read every page and memorized what I thought were the important points - like braking distances, right-of-way rules, and speed limits.


After another three days of studying I sat down to take my first practice exam. The exams are 50 questions each and you are allowed to miss up to 6 questions and still pass.


By the time that I answered the last question on my first practice exam, I knew that I was in serious trouble. There had been at least 8 completely obscure questions in the exam covering everything from the flag configuration on a Military Convoy to the difference between stopping on the side of the road to get cash from an ATM machine versus stopping to deliver a package. Well, at least the “normal” questions had gone pretty good, right? The ones about right-of-way and highway merging and speed limits on country roads were straight forward, weren’t they?


I turned to the answer key and started checking my answers. Holy Shit! 14 questions wrong!

Not only had I missed the obscure questions (as predicted), but I had also brutally learned that there is a major difference in how the Dutch view an exam versus how we Americans view it. The questions on this exam were specifically designed to trick you into making a wrong choice.

This is best illustrated with a question about the age/height/weight of children in a car seat. The exam picture showed a little kid sitting in a car seat, strapped in and smiling like a dork. The text told me that he weighed 25 kilo’s, was 5 years old and was 1,2 meters tall. The question was simple: May he ride like this? (Or in the annoyingly simplified Dutch used for the exam - “Mag dat?”)


Well, first off you couldn’t pay me to care less about the rules for little kids in car seats and in my opinion it has absolutely no bearing on the ability to operate a motor vehicle, but that issue aside, Sure! The little rugrat was fine in his little car seat! The age doesn’t matter, the weight was under the 36 kilo limit and the height can be up to 1,3 meters so he was good-to-go.


But I was stunned upon checking the answer…..Nooooooo. He was not good-to-go because the picture shows that the child seat is in the front seat of the car, not the back. WHAT!!! Just bloody ASK me if the thing has to be strapped into the front or the back seat!!!! Don’t mislead me with age/height/weight stats!


Needless to say, I didn’t schedule the real exam for that week. In fact, it took me three weeks to learn the trick nature of the questions in the practice exams and be able to pass them consistently.


But by the day of the real exam I thought that I was finally ready. I took the train into Amsterdam Sloterdijk station and leisurely walked the 15 minutes to the exam center, clearing my head in relaxed preparation. Thank god I was ½ hour early because when I got up to the window to announce my arrival, the receptionist nicely took my information and asked for my two passport sized photo’s that I would need for my certificate in case I passed the exam. When I explained that I hadn’t been told about this and didn’t have any photos with me, she kindly pointed to a sign on the wall, conveniently in both English and Dutch –“No photos, no exam. No exceptions!”


Son of a … The receptionist looked at her watch and said. You might be able to make it if you hurry. There is a photo booth at the train station.


I ran my ass off back up to the station. I was in my jeans and dress shoes and it must have been the hottest, muggiest day that we had all year here in Holland. By the time I got to the station I was sweating like a fatted calf at a prodigal son homecoming party, but I still managed to smile for the camera. My nerves were fraying as I had to stand and wait for the little machine to process and spit back out my pictures. At 12:20 I started running back to the exam center. I made it at 12:28 and just deposited my pictures with the receptionist when they called us into the exam room.


Still sweating, I sat down with 11 other people and was instructed on how to use the computerized system. Although I was pleasantly surprised to see that I wasn’t the only old-fart taking the exam today, I was completely frazzled at that point and was sure that it would not be the last time that I sat in this exam room.


It was yet another surprise that the exam was timed. You only had 45 seconds for each question. 45 seconds to examine the obscure details of each picture, looking for road signs, blind corners, and pedestrians. No answer in time equals a wrong answer.


It was a very long 30 minutes.


At the end of the exam the other people started talking with each other while we all waited for the results. I sat quietly. Listening. It was the 5th time for the woman next to me and the 3rd for the guy behind me. This was not sounding very encouraging.


When the examiner came back out, she had the results in a small stack of papers in her hand. She started walking among the rows, issuing apologies as she went. There were four people in front of me and she issued four apologies. “I’m sorry. I wish you better luck next time.”

Then she stood in front of me and with absolutely no change in expression or tone she said, “Congratulations” and handed me my certificate, complete with the disgusting sweaty picture attached. I had missed three questions.


Only four people passed the exam that day, which I came to find out was a typical percentage. But this expat American, who just recently learned that he had been driving illegally for the last 3 years, was one of them.


Stay tuned for the next installment – The Practical Exam, featuring the gay instructor, the air traffic controller, and the echoing words “You’re confusing the traffic! That’s the absolutely worst thing that you could possibly do!”

Monday, October 15, 2007

Fall Getaway


Normally we try to get down to the mountains in Belgium this time of year for a little crisp fall air and hiking, but this year Beth had to attend a short conference in Philadelphia so we tacked on a few extra days and spent some time out in our own mountains in Maryland.

We had beautiful summerlike weather that was almost unpleasantly warm...we were barely able to use the hot tub. The Youghiogheny River was a bit low due to the dry conditions and we were a little early for peak colors, but overall the property was in great shape and we got a nice preview of the brilliant colors that were yet to come.

The barn and new apple orchard.




Wisp Resort put in a new Mountain Coaster that had just opened in time for us to give it a try. It is an updated version of the old Alpine Slides of the1970’s. This latest addition to the resort was great fun, but I seem to remember the older slides going a little faster. Maybe that was just a perception of my youth, or it could have had something to do with the ever constant possibility that the older sleds could jump the track an send you careening down the mountain into a tree. This newer one didn’t have that “feature” and was anchored to the track like a modern rollercoaster. Fun, but not as thrilling.




While Beth attended her conference in the bland Philly suburbs, I hooked up with our good friends Steve and Grace for a tour of the inner city. The last time that Steve took me to downtown Philly was in 1987 and the focus of that tour was strip clubs, drinking, and urban blight – I had a great time but have been telling everyone that the city is a toilet ever since.

Well, I guess that we’ve all matured a little bit since those good old days and this time the tour focused on normal, everyday life in the city. I was pleasantly surprised and more than a bit impressed with what Philly had to offer outside of big hair and burgers.


A world class museum complex…




…with the famous Rocky statue as its center piece. “Adrianne!!!!”




The Italian Market is a funky, gritty district with great food offerings. Don’t laugh my European friends, but the market actually has a lot of the same character as some of the best Spanish markets that we’ve hit in Barcelona and Valencia. See…there is even an Esposito’s.


The real Italian market…coffee shop mobsters.




And what visit to Philly is complete without a look at the (in)famous Boathouse Row.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

The Interview

Several readers have asked how the job interview that I mentioned in my blog post on Aug 31 ended up so I thought that I’d put the results into this week’s posting.

To set the stage for this little story you have to remember that this was the first job interview that I’ve done in about 7 years, so I was admittedly a little nervous. Phone interviews always suck, and as I’ve already mentioned this one was going to focus in on my ability to communicate in Dutch.

I started preparing by walking through my experience in English, then once I had the pat answers down in my head (i.e. best project, worst mistake, weaknesses, strengths, etc.), I started to translate it into Dutch. Every time that I didn’t know a word for something, I would look it up and put it into a small cheat sheet of definitions that I could have beside me for the interview. By the day of the call my “small” cheat sheet was two pages long filled with various definitions, sentences, and phrases. I was amazed at how little business language that I knew in Dutch. It’s a lot different than talking about the weather or dogs in the park.

At 4:50 on the day of the interview, I locked myself into my office and ran through some last minute rehearsals in my head. The call to my cell phone came at 5:00 sharp. I answered with a formal greeting. The guy on the other end of the phone returned my greeting and then added something that I had absolutely no idea what it meant. It must have be something cordial…not a question yet, right? Everything drained from my head. It was like someone had rebooted me and I lost any semblance of composure.

I stammered back a daft reply, only to be greeted by silence.

It went downhill from there.

I found myself explaining my background in simple, 2nd grade Dutch. Loosely translated, it went something like this:

“At that job I did important work. I had a team. They lived in different countries. It was hard work, and important. We worked hard on projects. There was a lot of data.”

You get the drift. It wasn't exactly what you would expect to hear from an IT professional with more than 17 years of experience.

When I hung up the phone - after a whopping 10 minute interview, I never felt smaller in my life. That horrible feeling lasted about an hour…then I got mad.

That evening I sat down and wrote a letter - in English, to the guy that I had interviewed with. I clearly spelled out my qualifications and highlighted the ability to act as a communications bridge between the IT and business world as my greatest strength. I also outlined a plan to quickly improve my Dutch in a business environment. Every word that I wrote was bold, assertive, and confident.

The next morning I sent the letter via email. I wanted it to get to the guy before he had a chance to reject me.

That afternoon the recruiter that introduced me into the account called me. The manager had received my letter and was sufficiently impressed enough that he wanted to meet me in person. An intense, 4 hour face-to-face interview was scheduled. No mention of the disaster on the phone.

I met with 4 different people during the interview, and with three of them (including the guy from the phone interview) I didn’t speak a word of English. It was 100% Dutch and it went 100% better now that I was face to face. I’m sure that I missed a word here or there, but generally I was able to hold a conversation. I only faked understanding things once or twice and that was only a detail or two. I still was able to follow the general meaning of what was being said.

The fourth guy that I met with was a senior manager and I did speak with him a bit in English…mostly because he wanted to practice his language skills.

After the interviews were done, they had me wait in a conference room for about 20 minutes. The hiring manager returned with a folder full of material. It was an offer of employment.

So, it all worked out in the end. I rate my Dutch skills as reasonable, but the company actually felt that I was more in the “satisfactory” category. I think that is a bit of a stretch, but who am I to argue.

By the way, I rejected the offer.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Vaardagen

It’s funny how you can live somewhere for so long and still continue to discover so many new things. It’s been more than three years now and we had never even heard of Haarlem vaardagen – boating days, a festival in town that we stumbled across this weekend. Apparently it is held every year and wreaks havoc on the local traffic situation because of all the sailboats coming through the draw bridges. Add in the Jopenfeest, (beer festival), Open Monument days and more than 150,000 visitors and it was another jammed weekend of activities.

Sometimes we forget how cool this town is that we now call home – Haarlem.



The Spaarne river crowded with boats. Usually a busy local shipping route, now there is no way to get goods up and down the waterway with the boats stacked 4 and 5 deep along the bulkheads.




The boating lifestyle. I would like to rent a boat one of these days and do some touring around Holland. There is so much water and so many possibilities that it boggles the mind.



More boats…more parties.




Something for the kiddies. This old ferry was converted to a floating stage where performers entertained the kids.





We toured one of these 1930’s barges that had been converted to a floating house. It was fantastic inside! Hardwood floors, fireplace, TV/Computer room, gourmet kitchen, big bedroom, and skylights.



There was plenty to do on the land as well. All of the historic buildings in Haarlem were open and free to go through all weekend.




Brooding sky over crowded streets. But the rain held off and we even caught a bit of sun later in the day on the terrace of a local café.




This should be a familiar sight for everyone by now – the Grote Markt, Haarlem. We took this picture from the steps of city hall, one of the oldest buildings in all of The Netherlands. It was open for monument days so we got to check out the mayor's office....this was basically his view.