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Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Alpe d'Huez



24,710 Acres
84 Lifts
6 Cable Cars
10 Gondolas
41 Ski ropes
121 Marked trails
Virtually unlimited off trail skiing
6824 Foot vertical (Pic Blanc Gondola to L’enversin D’oz)
Longest single trail – 3.6 miles, 3320 vertical feet


Add a crystal clear blue sky, bright warming sun and French hospitality and you’ve got the makings for a great holiday weekend.

Wow! We’ve been wanting to do a ski trip in the Alps ever since we visited Innsbruk, Austria back in the 1990's. It’s hard to imagine that it took us over 10 years to finally make the return trip.


So when an old work colleague and friend of mine, Mederick invited us down to France to join him and his girlfriend Muriel for a weekend of skiing, Beth and I jumped on the opportunity. We flew into Lyon and rented a cheap little micro-car for the 2.5 hour drive up into the mountains. It was a pretty drive through the narrow alpine valley. But it turned truly spectacular when we turned off the main road and started up the twenty six switchbacks that climb from the valley floor to the mountainous slopes of Alpe D’Huez.

Tour de France



This was taken about half way up the switchbacks when we broke out of the hazy clouds of the valley. The building looked like an old monastery that was built on a precarious bluff on the side of the mountain. After we stopped, we weren’t so sure what the building was, but the views were spectacular. By the way, the climb up the mountain is one of the more brutal legs of the Tour de France bicycle race. I can’t imagine being able to climb it on a bike after already pedaling over 100 kilometers.

M & M



Our hosts – Mederick and Muriel. Not only did they introduce us to this great ski resort, but they let us share a friends apartment and cooked outstanding French meals for us each night. Thanks! That is why we let them whoop our butts at Eucre each night ;-) We’ll return the hospitality when you visit us in Holland….well, maybe we’ll cook some Spanish meals for you instead of Dutch and we’ll play cards to win ;-)

People Mover



The village crosses several different levels of the mountain and this lift is designed just as much for people coming home from a restaurant as it is for the skiers.

Honden



Sage would have had a ball here!

Pool



An outdoor heated pool in the center of the village.

Flatlanders



Two flatlanders near the top of the mountain. We just finished our first (and last) black diamond run of the day.

ATV's on ice



ATV races on the ice track. I’m sure that Katie and Jody could have cleaned up this crew!

Gondola



The photo doesn’t do this gondola justice. Unfortunately I forgot my camera on the day that we rode it to mid-mountain. The gondola stopped here and you had to walk across a metal grate (the flat part in this picture) to get back to solid ground. What you can’t see from this perspective is that the walkway was perched over about a 1000 foot drop down a rocky gorge in the side of the mountain. Let’s just say that Beth didn’t look down through the grate as she jogged with her ski’s to solid ground.

Slopeside



This photo gives a good perspective of the three tiers of the mountain. These two gondolas that you can see are on the second tier.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Dennenstraat 7

Wij hebben een nieuw huis gekocht!

It’s been a stressful few days as we tried to navigate the process to secure a bid on the house. As I’ve told some of you, the market here is extremely hot right now and houses frequently sell for more than the asking price.

The way that you bid is downright bizarre. Whoever makes the first bid on the house holds all the power. Anyone who comes in afterwards with another bid has no idea what the opening bid was. And to make it worse, you only have one opportunity to place your bid. So it better be right on target! Once you make your bid, then the opening bidder is notified and has an opportunity to match or beat your bid. As the second bidder, you are done. You have no other chance to again match/beat the other's bid. It is downright brutal!

We were sent information on this house late last week, but they were not doing any showings before Tuesday. We got a 2:00 timeslot for viewing. As soon as I walked in I knew it was our place. It had the kitchen on the front side of the house and was built out in the back. This configuration is pretty rare and leaves a large open room on the back south facing garden. It allready had the third story built up and everything was remodelled in the last 5 years. There is very little work to do besides painting and carpet. Perfect!

But by the time that I got there, there were already two bids for the house. Did I mention that Beth was in Germany from Monday to Wednesday? So, what do I do?

I sucked up and made as an attractive bid as I thought was possible without causing a divorce in our happy little family. Full price, no contingencies. My realtor called it in from the sidewalk in front of the house. She suggested that we put some pressure on them to accept by setting a 6:00PM deadline on the offer. At 5:30 I got a call from the realtor. They rejected the offer because of the deadline. There was so much interest in the house that they wanted to continue showings for another day. The only goal of which would be to drive bids up over the asking price. Disappointed and sure that we'd lose the house, I let the bid ride until noon on Wednesday.

To my surprise, I got a call at 12:30 on Wednesday that the bid had been accepted! Our “no contingency” clause had sealed the deal. So, I had just spent almost $400,000 Euros on a house that Beth had never seen! And you thought I didn’t have any cajones!

All the paperwork is due in next week. I don’t think we’ll be taking possession for several months…another oddity in the way that the real estate market works here. But for now, we're happy with the purchase. We’re flying down to the Alps in France to ski away a carefree weekend with friends.

Beth will get to see the house next week. ;-)

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Firewood

- what a difference a few thousand miles make.



When we lived back in the mountains of Western Maryland, Beth, Sage and I spent many weekends out in the forest with the tractor, trailer, and a couple of chainsaws cutting up firewood for winter. We heated our house with wood and needed to have 12 cords cut and stacked in the barn before the first snows flew.

It was hard work, but we really enjoyed doing it. It made the evenings in the hot tub seem that much more special.

Nowadays things are a little different ….




These little bags of wood are sold at our local garden store for 2.5 Euros each. We only use them on the open hearth for ambiance and we go through about 8 bags in the course of a winter here. It’s a far cry from loading the outside furnace three times a day.

In a way, I miss the woodcutting, hauling and stacking. I think that we’ll do a few loads “just for the fun of it” on one of our trips back to the land this year.

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Paella






























I got lucky this weekend!

Some hot babe flew in from the states and decided to spend a few days with me before she jetted back off to Asia. I had meticulously planned my three days with her, trying to maximize every minute of our time together.

Unfortunately, the first day was lost to jet lag…hey, I said she was hot, not young. But we made up for it on Saturday and Sunday, acting like a couple of hormonally overcharged teenagers who's parents are out of town for a few days.

It was a great weekend by all accounts. But it is kind of funny to compare notes between us. I think that I've been as clear as I can in expressing what my favorite part of the weekend was. Remember, my parents (and Beth's) read this blog. I'm a guy. We're easy to figure out, right?

With Beth, it's not always so easy. We were out walking the dog in the park on Sunday evening and ran into a good friend of ours. During the course of our conversation, this friend asked Beth what the best part of her weekend home was. I expected her to get a little red in the face and maybe let out a girlish giggle or two of embarrassment. But instead, Beth looked our friend right in the eye and without hesitation answered: “The Paella”.

Ok. It’s true. I make a mean Paella. But c’mon. You’d have thought she could have at least acknowledged the innuendo and maybe thrown my ego a little scrap of recognition. Well, I guess that I’ll just have to try harder next time.

Saturday, February 18, 2006

The Dog Days of Winter



February turned into a heavy travel month for Beth. She is on a marathon three week business trip that takes her across 13 times zones and a 35 degree Celsius temperature difference (that’s 95 degrees Fahrenheit folks!). She started out in London last week then headed over to Philadelphia to conduct interviews for one of the two positions that she is hiring. Then she spends the weekend with her parents down in Delaware. On Monday she goes up to Boston for the week. Luckily she gets to stop over in Haarlem the following weekend for a much needed conjugal visit before making her way to the other side of the globe – Singapore.

So, this week I’m just going to put out a few pictures of Sage and her friends. It’s where most of my “out of house” time is spent while Beth is away, so it feels appropriate. Cheers!

Three Amigos


Sage, Peepaw, and Jollie. These three are best buds in the park. It’s a constant swirl of activity and was impossible for them to stay still for a photo.

Rough Day


Sage and Sebbie after a hard day at the park. Seb is probably Sage’s best friend and when he spends the night she has no problem sharing with him.

Rosie


...or Rosarita. She answers to both. Rosie is probably the only dog that can take apart an indestructible Kong toy. She is the sworn enemy of children’s balls in the park. When she sees a ball, it is amazing how quickly she can sprint across the field, grab the ball and have it flattened before anyone knows that she is even gone. We’re talking under 30 seconds. Frank has to carry money with him on every walk in case he has to purchase a new ball for the kids.

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Sunny winter days



It has been a very mild winter here in Holland. We’ve actually seen quite a few sunny days and have been able to enjoy more outdoor activities than is typical for this time of year. Now that Beth has a new bike, we’ve been doing a lot more riding…even more than we used to do with the old beater that she brought from the states. And with her sporty new blue helmet, she’ll even hit the single track with me. She’s still not screaming down the hills, but she holds her own pretty good and she is almost able to climb “The Wall” at Kilometer 16 in Schoorl….affectionately named after the steep grade up 8th Street back in Boise.

I still want to do my solo trip along the Rhine river to Switzerland this year, but I think that the more she rides the more interest she has in joining me on a few overnighters with the bikes…as long as I’m hauling her stuff in the panniers.

The Payoff


A view like this makes a day of riding extra special. This spot is at the top of a hill after a steep climb out of the thick pine forest. We usually take a break here because you are out in the sun and can see for miles beyond the dunes to the North Sea. on the far side of the the hill, the trail drops down a long hard-packed screamer of single track and plunges back into the woods.

Tuesday, January 31, 2006

Tweede Taal

I’ve always assumed that my logical and mathematically oriented brain would take to another language like a ditch-digger to dirt. After all, language is just a bunch of grammar and syntax rules that you apply in a uniform and consistent manner, right? What could be easier? I’ve been doing this kind of shit for 15 years in over 10 different computer languages. Why should Dutch be any different?

My expectations for myself and the language were therefore rather high when we first moved to Holland. I bought a phrasebook, a dictionary, and a beginners course on CD-ROM. What I had not anticipated was the fact that 90% of Dutch people are fluent in English. From the very first day in Holland, when we met Peter and Ben on the street in front of our house, we’ve never been in a situation in this country where we could not get by with English. It bulldozed over us. With each passing day, we were meeting and interacting with more and more of the locals, making friends, setting down roots – all in English. No one ever expected us to know their language. After all, we were just Expats, passing through for a year or two. They were always happy - no, let me rephrase that - they were always excited to speak with us in English. It was very good practice for them.

And so the pattern was set. When I was out in the park I would speak English. Sure, I was studying Dutch at home with the books that I brought from America. I thought that it was going well and I would occasionally “dazzle” someone with a phrase or two of Dutch, but any conversations quickly reverted back to English, which was fine with me. We were just getting to know people and even though I had learned the conjugations of verbs and basic sentence structure, I didn’t feel that I could fully express my personality in the language yet. Things were going so well in English.

I still remember the day that I realized how naïve I had been. It was about 6 months after moving here. Beth and I were at the old butter market in Haarlem and we were going to have lunch at our favorite fish stall on the square. I’m sure that the guy behind the booth knew our faces because we’d eaten here so many times before, always ordering in English. But this time it was going to be different. I had been rehearsing all morning exactly what I was going to say in Dutch. I would order us two Cod sandwiches, with mayonnaise and spicy sauce, on hard rolls. Beth would be so impressed. I imagined her looking up at me with fluttering eyes and pouty lips. This was going to be great.

When our turn came, I pulled her up to the counter with me so that she could hear every word of my linguistic talents. I stepped up and confidently delivered my rehearsed lines, which went something like this:

“Ik wil graag twee gebakken stukjes kabeljauw, op harde broodjes. Met mayonnaise and gekruide saus op allebei, alstublieft”

The clerk hesitated, looking at me with a hint of uncertainty in his eyes. But then my heart soared when he pulled two crusty rolls from the bag and reached into the counter for the stack of breaded cod.

Homerun! The grammar was perfect. The sentence structure was fully optimized. The proper syllables were stressed. The inflections of voice were on target and my “g’s” were beautifully gargled. Hrmmph! No problem. I could speak Dutch! I looked over at Beth, beaming with pride and waiting for the payoff look from her. I didn’t quite get the “Oh Dan, what a stud” look that I had daydreamed about, but she did smile back at me with her eyebrows slightly raised.

Then I felt a jab on my other side. An older woman was standing beside me, poking me on the shoulder and pointing toward the clerk. When I turned, she hit me with a long, fast stream of Dutch. I think it was Dutch, but it could have just as easily been Swahili because I had no idea what she was saying or what she could possibly have wanted with me. I was a bit shaken and followed her pointing finger to the clerk. He was coating our sandwiches in mayonnaise, but when he caught my eye he asked me a question. At least I thought it was a question. His voice rose at the end, and he appeared to be waiting for a response. But seeing just more confusion on my face, he stopped giving his mayonnaise bath and repeated the question a second time, looking me directly in the eye.

Nothing. Nada. Zip. Null. Blank stare. In the context of this simple transaction for two lousy fish sandwiches, you’d have thought that I could pull the meaning of a word or two from the heap of sounds that I was hearing. It was truly embarrassing that I had absolutely no clue what he was saying. My confidence was shattered. I took a step back, and punted.

“I’m sorry, but I don’t speak Dutch.”

…

That day was a bit of a turning point for me. I am still convinced that there is some genetic code that makes certain skills easier or harder for different people learn. But I now realize that whatever the code is for a second language, it wasn’t delivered with my aptitude for math. I was going to have to work for this language.

It’s been a very tough road for me, one of the most difficult things that I’ve ever undertaken, full of setbacks and frustration. But the longer that we stay here, the more that I realize how important learning the language is for us to move out of the “temporary Expat” box with our local friends.

That day on the butter market, I set a goal for myself for the next 12 months. It was a vague goal, and would be very tough to measure. But I am now happy to say that I consider that goal met.

I am finally able to hold a meaningful, two-way conversation in Dutch.

I continue to learn and am nowhere close to fluent. I don’t really know if I ever will be. My vocabulary is pitifully small, and I still catch myself making many mistakes. But people no longer automatically switch over to English with me, and even if they do, I continue on in Dutch. After all, I need the practice.